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Take a look at this label on this 40 gallon&nbsp;
electric water heater.

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It lists three wattages:

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Upper is 4500W.

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Lower is also 4500W.

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And of&nbsp;course that totals…

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4500 wa - whatt?

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Who wrote this?

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Actually, that’s not a mistake.

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You’ll find&nbsp;similar labels on most conventional electric water heaters.

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Oh and, by the way, that second&nbsp;listed wattage is what it would run at 
if hooked up to a 208V electrical supply rather than&nbsp;240,

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which you’ll usually find in office and large apartment buildings.

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Using Ohm’s law&nbsp;we can determine that this thing’s heating element has a resistance of 12.8 ohms,

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which&nbsp;at 240V would draw 18.75 amps and thus 4500 watts

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but at 208v it would only draw 16.25&nbsp;amps which works out to 3380W.

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Math is fun!

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Anyway, how can those two numbers add up&nbsp;to themselves?

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This label would suggest 2+2 is 2.

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And I’m pretty confident that’s wrong.

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Well,&nbsp;you might have guessed by the labels “upper” and “lower” that there are two separate heating&nbsp;elements in the water heater -

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indeed there are, and they’re both the same power rating.

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The&nbsp;reason for this silly math has to do with the thermostats.

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Yeah, there’s two of those, too.

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But they’re cleverly interlocked in a way that not only prevents them from running at&nbsp;the same time which would overload the electrical supply

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but also makes the operation&nbsp;
of the water heater smarter and more effective.

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A water heater like this is an extremely simple&nbsp;device.

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It’s really just an exceptionally well-insulated cylindrical tank of water
with a few holes in it.

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Up top there are holes to let water in and out.

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Down below is&nbsp;another hole with a spigot to let you flush out the tank periodically,

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and then there are&nbsp;two holes in the sides of the tank under these covers.

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The heating elements stick into the tank&nbsp;and thus into the water through those holes and when power is run through them

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they get real&nbsp;hot.

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This is really just an overgrown kettle.

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Now, there are actually two more holes in the tank,
one of which leads to the temperature/pressure safety valve up top.

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Heating water makes it expand&nbsp;slightly which increases the pressure inside the tank.

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Ordinarily this isn’t a problem.

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The tank may seem like a sealed pressure vessel
but it’s still connected to the rest&nbsp;of your plumbing.

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As the water inside expands, some water will simply move out of the tank by&nbsp;pushing the water in the supply line backwards.

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However, if you have an entirely closed&nbsp;plumbing system with backflow prevention,

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then that won’t be possible so you probably&nbsp;
have an expansion tank installed with your&nbsp;water heater.

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At least I hope so.

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But anyway&nbsp;if for whatever reason pressure starts building up too high in the tank and/or the water&nbsp;inside is getting too hot

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then this valve will pop open, releasing that pressure and&nbsp;
spraying hot water onto the floor,

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and you will have a very bad day but at least&nbsp;the water heater didn’t explode.

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That’s nice.

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And the final hole in the tank is one many people overlook.

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Because the tank is made of steel which, I don’t know if you’ve heard but doesn’t really like to&nbsp;be in prolonged contact with water,

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a sacrificial anode rod often made of&nbsp;aluminum or magnesium pokes down into the water to take the corrosion bullet&nbsp;for the rest of the tank

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and keep it from rusting.

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The top of that rod lives buried underneath the&nbsp;foam insulation
that's underneath this plug,

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and it can actually be replaced!

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If you do that regularly, it can extend&nbsp;the life of your water heater significantly.

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But almost nobody does that,&nbsp;including me.

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Yay laziness!

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But this isn’t a home improvement channel…

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So&nbsp;what's so special about this water heater that’s making me make a video about it?

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Well, earlier I said the&nbsp;thermostats make it smarter and more effective.

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Allow me to explain.

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Notice that even though this&nbsp;is a 40 gallon water heater,

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its rated capacity is somehow 53 gallons.

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Where did it magic 13 extra gallons from?

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Well, I suppose we can let water out of the tank
while also heating incoming water, can’t&nbsp;we?

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Yes, but there’s more to it than just that.

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First, how exactly does the water flow into and&nbsp;out of this tank?

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Both pipes are at the top,

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but the incoming water supply pipe attaches to&nbsp;a dip tube that travels
all the way down to the bottom of the tank -

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meaning cold water enters the&nbsp;tank from below and pushes hot water out the top.

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We can actually observe this with the thermal&nbsp;camera.

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Right now the tank has a fairly uniform temperature,
 just a few degrees above ambient.

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But when I open a tap and start using its hot water,

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we see that it’s only getting colder&nbsp;at the bottom of the tank.

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And here’s something pretty fascinating about water: 
so long as you reduce turbulence and keep things relatively still,

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the hot and cold&nbsp;water inside the tank doesn’t mix.

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Like, at all.

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You can see that as I continue using&nbsp;hot water, the region that’s cold is getting bigger,

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but the hot parts up top are still&nbsp;just as hot as they were when I started.

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This happens because hot water is less dense than&nbsp;cold water,

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so in effect it “floats” to the top of the tank, and as a result a surprisingly sharp&nbsp;boundary between hot and cold is maintained.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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Now you might think that over time that&nbsp;boundary layer will disappear
and the&nbsp;water will mix together but

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for the most part&nbsp;it doesn’t.

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Any water that cools down inside the tank
(like for instance the water clinging&nbsp;to the slightly cooler tank walls)

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becomes more dense and simply sinks to the bottom,
piling in&nbsp;with the rest of the cold water.

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After a very long time without adding heat energy to the tank&nbsp;
the remaining hot water does start to cool down,

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but it takes a lot longer than you’d think.

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Like, the better part of a day.

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It’s pretty wild.

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This thermal stratification
combined with&nbsp;how we fill the tank from the bottom-up

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turns out to be really useful.

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Remember that&nbsp;we have two heating elements
sticking into the tank at two different heights.

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As you continue using hot water, eventually the cold/hot water boundary reaches&nbsp;the bottom heating element and its thermostat,&nbsp;&nbsp;

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kicking that element on so it can start&nbsp;
working to heat the water as it flows into the tank.

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[sound of water trickling in pipes]

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[hissing noise from the element starts]

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Now, 4500 watts may seem like a lot of power,
but in&nbsp;the context of water heating it really isn’t.

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It takes gobs of energy to heat water.

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At most&nbsp;the water heater can put 4500 joules into the water per second, or 1075.5 gram calories per&nbsp;second.

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On a cold winter day the water entering the tank might be 10 degrees Celsius if we’re&nbsp;lucky,

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and our target temperature is generally around 50 degrees Celsius.

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So we need to attain&nbsp;a 40 degree temperature rise.

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If we divide the gram calories we have every second by the 40&nbsp;
degrees we need to increase in temperature,

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we find that we can only heat 26.9 milliliters of&nbsp;
water per second, or about 1.6 liters per minute.

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That’s not too bad, really, but&nbsp;the lowest flow shower heads you’ll&nbsp;generally find here are 1.5 gallons per&nbsp;minute,

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and they may go as high as 2.5.

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Sticking with the smaller number, that’s&nbsp;nearly 5.7 liters per minute of flow.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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Of course most people temper hot water with a&nbsp;bit of cold water

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so we might only have 4 liters leaving the hot water tank every minute

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but that’s&nbsp;still more than double what we can heat with 4500 watts.

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So we’re going to run out of hot water&nbsp;eventually.

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There’s just no getting around that.

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Even if we try and heat the water as it enters the&nbsp;tank,

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the water is simply moving out too quickly and it won’t reach the target temperature by the&nbsp;time we’ve used up the hot water already in it.

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But, remember there’s a second heating element&nbsp;above the one at the bottom.

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It isn’t any more powerful

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but with a bit of&nbsp;strategy we can use it to chase the water as it leaves the tank.

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And that’s exactly what the water&nbsp;heater does.

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With our theoretical 4 liters per minute flow rate, the lower heating element will&nbsp;
only achieve about a 16 degree temperature rise.

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That's nowhere enough, but also that’s not nothing.

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So long as the lower element is turned on,

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in effect the bottom of the tank is filling up with 26 degree&nbsp;water

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rather than 10 degree water.

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And once that tepid water reaches the top&nbsp;element,

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well now its thermostat kicks in and switches the power output to itself.

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We&nbsp;have the same 4500 watts that we did before, but now it’s up here -

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working to heat&nbsp;the water we’ve already started heating.

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[hissy water heater sounds]

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[CLACK, hissing stops]

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[a new and louder hissing begins]

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We can still only achieve a 16 degree temperature&nbsp;
rise with 4 liters per minute of flow,

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but that’ll get us up to 42 degrees.

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Not exactly where we&nbsp;want to be, but still plenty hot.

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We will of course still run out of hot water - once the&nbsp;
top element kicks on the bottom switches off,

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so the water entering the tank is now truly cold&nbsp;and once it’s up near the top...

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well, game over.

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At best we’re getting 26 degree water out of the tank, now.

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But this&nbsp;strategy bought us some extra time with a limited power source simply by changing where we applied&nbsp;that power, and heating the same water twice.

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This is where we magicked 13 extra gallons from.

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4500 watts is 4500 joules per second, and that's 16.2 million joules per hour
or 3.87 million gram calories.

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And lift 96.8 liters of water by 40 degrees celsius.

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So over an hour, this water heater can&nbsp;bring
25.5 gallons of cold water to our&nbsp;target temperature,

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and that is where&nbsp;this “1st hour rating” comes from.

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I reckon it’s only listed as 13 gallons over the&nbsp;true capacity

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since it was calculated using a 208V&nbsp;supply
and assuming we start with freezing&nbsp;cold water.

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Quite conservative.

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In any case, this means that over an hour the energy it can&nbsp;
add to cold water plus the energy it has stored in 40 gallons of already hot water

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is the same&nbsp;as if you had 53 gallons in the first place.

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And on 240V like I have here it&nbsp;may be closer to, like 65 gallons.

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The strategy employed here is frankly genius,
especially considering how simple this&nbsp;device is.

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All we have are two bog-standard&nbsp;thermostats.

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There are no electronics here, there’s no control scheme,
it’s just a thermostat&nbsp;for each heating element.

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The only complication to the circuit design is that the top thermostat&nbsp;always takes priority.

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If that heating element is switched on, the thermostat breaks the circuit&nbsp;to the lower element to prevent it from running.

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Now, you might think this would cause some sort of&nbsp;operational conflict.

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What if we want the bottom thermostat to run
but the top one happens to have kicked on?

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Well, think about this for a sec:

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because hot water stays at the top of the tank naturally, 
and we fill it with cold water comes in at the&nbsp;bottom,

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for the most part that just doesn't happen.

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In fact, top element rarely gets used at all.

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It basically only comes on&nbsp;after you have used up more than half of the water in the tank.

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If you don’t use at least&nbsp;that much, the bottom element will take care of things.

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Same goes for keeping the tank warm&nbsp;between uses.

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And with a low-flow shower head, 15 minutes in the shower is unlikely to&nbsp;use much more than 20 gallons of water.

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So, yeah, the top one just doesn't need to run.

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But if you do happen to use up all the hot water,&nbsp;or even just come close to that,

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well now the strategy of giving the top element priority helps us again.

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While we can of course&nbsp;use the bottom element alone to heat the water,

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after all the hot water it generates down there will float&nbsp;
up to the top,

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doing that means we have to heat the entire volume in one go.

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Whatever&nbsp;hot water it generates at the bottom has to travel through all the cold water on its way&nbsp;up to the top which will of course cool it down.

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Oh, by the way, I should mention that&nbsp;
whenever the elements are actively heating,&nbsp;&nbsp;

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there is some mixing and churning of the&nbsp;water going on inside the tank
thanks to&nbsp;the convection currents that generates.

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You&nbsp;can see that happening here with this kettle.

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That’s how we can heat the entire tank of&nbsp;
water using what amounts to two hot sticks.

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Anyway, if we want to heat 40 gallons&nbsp;
of cold water by 40 degrees celsius,

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it’s gonna take over 6 million&nbsp;calories or about 7039 watt-hours.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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With 4500 watts to play with, that’s gonna&nbsp;take about an hour and a half.

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However, if we only send power to the top element, 
then&nbsp;in effect we only have to heat half of the water.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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We’ll still get some convection currents around&nbsp;the element, 
but we won’t be mixing all of the&nbsp;water together -

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the bottom of the tank will stay&nbsp;cold.

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So we’ll get the water in the top of the tank  (which remember is what leaves first)
up to&nbsp;our desired temperature in half the time.

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So even after completely running out of hot water,
you’ll&nbsp;get truly hot water again after only 45 minutes or so.

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Only once that’s warm and “ready” will we send&nbsp;
power back down to the bottom element to heat up the rest.

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I know that I’m weird, but I think this is amazing!

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I only recently learned that there are two thermostats on the water heater.

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In hindsight it&nbsp;probably should have been a little more obvious since, y’know, there’s two identical covers&nbsp;on the front but

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I just assumed that was for cost cutting or something and thought there&nbsp;
was one thermostat controlling both elements.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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Well, OK I guess there still is,&nbsp;
technically, but… y’know what I mean.

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The simple physics of how hot water behaves in&nbsp;a tank allowed us to implement a very strategic&nbsp;method of heating it

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using nothing but a&nbsp;dip tube and two interlocked thermostats.

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Just doing that covers pretty much all possible concerns:

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how best&nbsp;to heat a cold tank for the fastest-possible hot water, 
how to chase it on its way out&nbsp;for some extra reserve capacity,

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and how to do both those things with a more reasonable amount of&nbsp;input power.

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And that’s what I call … neat!

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You might have noticed that the water heater&nbsp;
is hooked up to some sort of mystery box.

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[CLACK]
What exactly is inside that box is not important for you to know

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but&nbsp;it allows me to disable the water heater at-will.

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00:15:54,000 --> 00:15:56,851
Or I guess... selectively enable it.

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The water heater&nbsp;only has power if the red light is on.

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See, I’m in the middle of some experiments.

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Water heaters, as I said, are exceptionally well insulated.

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In fact you would have no&nbsp;idea there’s 40 gallons of piping hot water in there by touching the tank as it feels&nbsp;stone cold.

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The only heat you can really feel is what leaks out of the supply pipes -&nbsp;
I really oughta get some sleeves for those.

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Anyway, because this thing is so well-insulated&nbsp;
that means it’s effectively a battery.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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Remember that math I did earlier?

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It takes over&nbsp;7 kilowatt-hours to heat up 40 gallons of water by 40 degrees C.

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And that’s… a lot!

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Electric&nbsp;water heaters are among the most power-hungry things in your life,

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and the cost to operate them&nbsp;is a big reason
many people chose to use gas instead for water heating.

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I mean, just look at this! Yikes!&nbsp;And those are old numbers!

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Oh and by the way, the reason the cost range is so narrow is because

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energy is energy and water is water.

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Now, I have a time-of-use rate plan with my utility and&nbsp;
power in the middle of the night is quite cheap.

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So for the past couple of months,
I have only been&nbsp;letting this thing operate between 1 and 5 AM.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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And believe it or not, I pretty much can’t tell.

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Now, I can feel the comments already -

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aren’t&nbsp;you supposed to keep your water heater hot at all times? 
Aren’t you the least bit worried&nbsp;about diseases like Legionaries?&nbsp;&nbsp;

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Well, sort of and as a precaution I did set the&nbsp;temperature a fair bit higher before I embarked on&nbsp;this journey...

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but on the other hand for years I have been shutting&nbsp;off the water heater
whenever I leave for more than a day

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and I’m not dead yet!

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But&nbsp;in fairness, that could be a risk and more research is definitely needed there,

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so I am not&nbsp;endorsing this practice. Do not do this at home.

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I can however tell you that when that thing is “charged&nbsp;up”

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it will stay hot for way way wayyy longer than&nbsp;I thought was remotely possible.

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I've taken&nbsp;a shower at 9:00 at night - meaning the water heater had not operated for sixteen hours!&nbsp;- and the water was still scaldingly hot.

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And remember the whole “hot and&nbsp;cold water won’t mix” thing?&nbsp;&nbsp;

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Yeah, you’d think that after a while it&nbsp;would but no!

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It just doesn’t!

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I’ve taken a shower in the morning,
probably using up&nbsp;a good half of the tank’s volume,

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and in the evening - over ten hours later - the water&nbsp;
from the kitchen tap was still too hot to touch.

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More quantitatively,

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I measured the temperature&nbsp;after running approximately 10 gallons of water through the kitchen tap at 132.4 Fahrenheit.

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Five hours later - five hours of the water heater being entirely off -

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the water measured&nbsp;124.3 degrees.

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Just swapped the digits around.

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Somehow, even with at least 10 gallons of cold water&nbsp;
sitting in the bottom of the tank for five hours,&nbsp;&nbsp;

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we lost only 8 degrees of temperature.

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It’s wild&nbsp;but the cold and hot water really just don’t mix.

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Now obviously this strategy won't work for&nbsp;families. 
Good luck spreading 40 gallons a day&nbsp;around.

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But I think it’s worth pointing out that&nbsp;
this thing hardly loses any energy when it’s not getting used.

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And that makes it a really effective&nbsp;energy storage device - and a large one at that!

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This 40 gallon tank stores 70% of the energy that the original&nbsp;
Chevy Volt’s battery pack could!'I hope you can see that there’s a lot of potential for energy management&nbsp;
applications, here. You shut this thing off for an&nbsp;&nbsp;

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I hope you can see that there’s a lot of potential
for energy management&nbsp;applications, here.

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If you need to shut this off for an hour or even two, you you won’t even notice.

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And,&nbsp;what if you put a thermostatic mixing valve on its output?

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Then, you could charge up a more sophisticated&nbsp;water heater well beyond your target temperature when energy is cheap and abundant,

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not&nbsp;only storing that energy for later, but also extending the tank's capacity.

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As a matter of fact that idea is already&nbsp;
in use with some heat pump water heaters today.

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I’ll be keeping track of energy costs here and&nbsp;
will report on how this experiment continues to&nbsp;go.

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I’ll probably do that on my second&nbsp;channel
so you might want to subscribe if you haven’t already.

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But I can already&nbsp;say with complete confidence that a conventional, tanked water heater can be an important&nbsp;part of an energy-management strategy.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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People keep asking for my thoughts on tankless&nbsp;water heaters

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and frankly this experiment is reinforcing my previously-held belief
that they’re&nbsp;not the be-all-end-all.

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They need tremendous amounts of power and can’t store energy for later.

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Plus they have unique maintenance considerations.

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I really think they only make sense&nbsp;
when you have severe space constraints,&nbsp;&nbsp;

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and personally... I gotta say that
if you feel&nbsp;you need the “endless” hot water they can&nbsp;provide,

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it might be worth considering adjusting&nbsp;your routines.

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But that’s just, like, my opinion.

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Anyway, that whole section was basically a&nbsp;
teaser for my next video which will be on&nbsp;home electrification.

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That’s coming soon. At&nbsp;least I hope.

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For now, I hope what I’ve said here will get some gears turning.

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Many of&nbsp;the obstacles we think are insurmountable are in fact a piece of cake with just  a bit of strategy&nbsp;and a dash of management.

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Thanks for watching.

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♫ scaldingly smooth jazz ♫

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You’ll find similar labels on most conventional&nbsp;electric water heaters.

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Oh and, by the way, that second listed wattage is&nbsp;
what would blet deh buh dih be deh

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And by the way, that second listed wattage is what it&nbsp;
would run at -

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what the heck was that noise?

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I heard a weird noise.&nbsp;

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Right now, the tank has a prettyform&nbsp;out… prettyform?

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It's pretty uniform.

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Same goes for keeping the tank&nbsp;warm between uses.

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And a low-flow shower head fit… oh.

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I skipped a word!

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...combined with how we fill the tank from the bottom up turns out to be really useful.

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Remember&nbsp;that we have two heating elemen…

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[belches]
I GOTTA BURP

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Explaining how your water heater works can be a tankless job.

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OK, that's not mine, plenty of plumbing companies the world over use that one.

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Besides, like I said I don't exactly have an affinity for tankless water heaters.

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Especially since electric ones need, like 10 kW just to provide one shower.

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Then you might as well get one of those electric shower thingies.

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Anyway, toodles.

